This blend of Umpqua and Applegate Valley fruit, cofermented with 2% Viognier, is crisp and varietal, with mixed berries, peppercorns and cured meats all vying for your attention. Seamless and balanced, it keeps the alcohol down around 14.3%, which keeps the integrated structure intact. Silky tannins carry a whiff of roasted coffee through the finish.——P.G.(4/1/2008)—— 91