From 30-year-old vines, pressed whole cluster and stainless steel fermented. Spritzy and sweet, it smells and tastes quite like orange pekoe tea, generously infused with sugar. Too sweet, but not enough for dessert, and spritzy but not really frizzante—what exactly do you do with this wine? The winery suggests trying Early Muscat zabaglione, or serve it with lavender butter cookies. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 86