A barrel selection—which tends to come from the property's oldest (ungrafted) vines—the 2017 Excelsior Pinot Noir spent 18 months in oak, without coming across as overly wooded. Modest hints of pencil shavings accent concentrated cherry and raspberry fruit in this medium to full-bodied effort. Expansive and silky on the palate, it's a clear step up from the regular bottling, boasting increased density, richness, length and complexity.