Scents of sassafras; brown-spiced, pickled melon rind; and toasted nuts in the nose of the Christoffel 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett feinherb usher in a creamy, lush, yet refreshing and satisfyingly buoyant palate on which sweet herbal and nut oil essences coalesce – supported by 17 grams of residual sugar – finishing with effortless lift and lip-smacking savor. Even though this has only half a percent less alcohol than the Wurzgarten Spatlese trocken, the overall balance and sense of weight (read: delicacy) is entirely different. A rich, low-toned, nutty, stony yet anything but austere finish caps this satisfying performance that ought to be capable of running for at least 6-8 years. I had to forego Hans-Leo Christoffel’s droll wit this year and (no offense meant to him by this remark of course!) taste with proprietor Robert Eymael.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Decidedly more citric – lemony above all, but also hinting at pineapple and more cite-typical orange – than the corresponding feinherb version, Christoffel’s 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett also projects complimentary honeysuckle aromas and inner-mouth perfume. The low-toned nuttiness and textural allure of the feinherb are absent here, but there is nearly compensatory sheer refreshment and the sweetness certainly does a fine job of setting the fruit into succulent relief, leading to a lingering finish. This ought to be worth following for at least 15 years. I had to forego Hans-Leo Christoffel’s droll wit this year and (no offense meant to him by this remark of course!) taste with proprietor Robert Eymael.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300