Domaine Marcel Deiss Huebuhl Bergheim, Alsace, France

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Given that its site is botrytis-prone, I was surprised to even find a 2006 Heubuhl on Deiss’s table, and the wine’s deep, rose gold color and fungal aromas leave no doubt about the presence of rot, how noble or ignoble being the question. Smoked meat, grapefruit rind, sweat, distilled pit fruits, and pineapple inject formidable complexity. There is also considerable bitterness; slightly detached acidity that lends little real refreshment; and a persistence of fresh mushroom, with the wine’s residual sugar (arguably too little in this instance) allied to a palpable sense of drying. Off somewhere, there is an ethereal hint of botrytis honey, like a tiny vignette of paradise in the corner of an Hieronymus Bosch phantasm. I don’t think this wine will get there, though.Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000