The Gies-Duppel 2008 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Weiser Burgunder trocken originates in the Triassic sandstone Taschberg (symbolized via a new estate-internal convention by a crown on the label). Fresh lime, apple, raw almond, plus Chenin-like suggestions of quince and snuffed candle wick in the nose lead to a creamy, indeed positively opulent palate presentation. Hazelnut and apple pip inject notes of bitterness into the finish just where the mineral element becomes somewhat stony and austere. Still, there is sufficient juiciness to assuage that impression. This surprisingly rich and formidably long Pinot Blanc (a small portion of which was vinified in a new barrique) should be worth following for at least 3-5 years. For more about Volker Gies’s promising career and estate, consult my coverage in issue 185. His 2008s – which typically received around 6 hours on their skins in the press – were bottled already in March (and indeed, several were sold out by September). Gies indicated that it rained in his part of the Sudliche Weinstrasse for the better part of a week beginning October 27, so that he was glad to have finished picking shortly before that, but as at neighboring Wehrheim, I found this collection of wines on the whole slightly austere when compared with last year’s.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356