Displaying smoky and nutty piquancy on the nose and palate that are quite common for this site, Mikulski’s 2006 Meursault Poruzots maintains the themes of bright, juicy citricity and overtly crushed stone minerality struck by his entire collection. This impressively concentrated, lively take on Meursault misses the dramatic intensity of the Gouttes d’Or today, but gives every indication of being similarly worth following for 5-7 years mininum. The 2005 seemed slightly less site-typical or concentrated. Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70