On release, the Queen of the Earth wines—but the Chardonnay, in particular—can be intensely built and substantial. With time, the components ameliorate and become one, and it all makes more sense. The thing that we can be certain of, at all stages of life, is the fruit quality. The seamless flow of flavor from front to back shows a depth of understanding of site and production that translates eloquently in the glass. The 2020 Queen of the Earth Chardonnay is ripe and complex but shows none of the warmth of the season. It is intense and restrained and littered with white peach, preserved citrus, maritime briney things (kelp, jetties, moss and shore) and white tea. There are crushed nuts aplenty and loads of exotic spice. This is an elegant, super wine. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.