Another deep, expressive wine, the 2008 Syrah Roll Ranch fleshes out beautifully on the mid-palate. All the elements are in symmetry. This is a more radiant, ripe style of Syrah within the Ojai portfolio. The wine’s textural finesse compensates for a bouquet that is not especially varietal, at least today. The Roll Ranch stands apart from the rest of the Syrahs. It emerges from a warmer, earlier ripening site that is typically harvested in early September, a good month (or more) earlier than the rest of the Syrahs. The 2008 was co-fermented with 2% Viognier. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Pure, ripe and complex dark fruit aromatics show spice and floral accents in this red, which is rich, yet graceful in texture, with fine-grained tannins. Offers blueberry, wild berry and boysenberry flavors that turn elegant on the finish. Drink now through 2024. 339 cases made. –JL