From parcels around Epfig and raised in a mixture of tank and older barrique, the Ostertag 2007 Pinot Noir d’E features tart, ripe plum; fennel; cardamom; hints of musk, game, and resin; and an invigorating lick of salt. In every respect a light Pinot Noir, it is nonetheless thoroughly delicious; far from simple; and should prove versatile at table over at least the next couple of years. I found the 2007 and 2006 Pinot Noir Fronholz bottlings marred by excessive volatility and fecal notes respectively, and both were dried-out by barrel exposure. Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name “Epfig” will now merely be coded with the capital letter “E” because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of “village level” names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524