The 2001 Riesling Kabinett Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is a tight, austere, linear offering, yet it displays excellent to outstanding breadth and depth. Limes, salt (yes, almost a Margarita!) apples, and pears can be found in its zesty, light to medium-bodied personality. Satin-textured and vibrant, this wine may well ultimately merit a better score as its concentrated core of fruit blossoms with cellaring. It is an excellent value. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2014. Johannes Selbach, this estate's winemaker and director (as well as Terry Theise's man-on-the-ground in Germany) is on fire. His wines are top flight and yet his winemaking appears to be improving with each vintage. Readers should note that Selbach's wines typically appear substantially better after a few years of cellaring. I've tried to compensate for that by inserting plus (+) signs by those wines that have the most chance of improving significantly over time.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300