Aromatically, the 1997 Criots-Batard-Montrachet is austere and scented with salty minerals. It is exceedingly well-focused for a '97, medium-to-full-bodied, and crammed with gravel, chalk, sun-baked rocks, and dried earth-like flavors. This wine, like many Criots, doesn't quite fulfill the taster's hedonistic needs, yet is complex, defined, and intellectual. It should be at its best between 2002 and 2008. Louis Latour is represented by a different importer in each state.