Latour’s 2006 Criot-Batard-Montrachet (from contract grapes) displays a Chenin-like emphasis on quince, along with gardenia and brown spices. A flattering creaminess and subtle oiliness of texture characterize this wine’s sultry, plush palate, and its sense of enveloping richness extends to a long, soothing finish. I am sure that this will keep well for at least half a dozen years, but there does not seem to be any reason to wait. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.