Deiss's 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Altenberg de Bergheim was produced entirely in oak (approximately 20% new casks). It is a wine of great richness, breadth, and depth, with smoky fruit aromas, and a plump, mouth-coating personality. Its sweet yellow fruit flavors are spiced by the oak in an extremely appealing manner, yet the wood flavors return with a vengeance in the finish. If this creamy-textured, medium-to-full-bodied offering's huge fruit is ultimately capable of absorbing the oak it will be a first rate effort. Projected maturity: 2002-2010.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.