The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Sankt Georgen seems to reflect its mussel-chalk origins throughout. High-toned cherry with rhubarb, lentil, grapefruit, white pepper, and chalk dust inform the nose. Dense and creamy in texture on the palate this takes on a Chablis-like combination of cherry, cherry pit, pear pip, grapefruit rind, and some mysterious mineral and carnal broth, then finishes with strikingly chalky and stony notes as well as penetrating fruit clarity. Velich intentionally picked in one pass from top to bottom of this site, so as to capture a range of ripeness, including some still green-gold fruit for vivacity. The finished alcohol was 14%, but by the time it had spent a year in barrel that had diminished to 13.5%. This wonderful new wine will probably enjoy a long bottle life, but no one can really say. (Soon, Velich will also begin working with both Gruner Vetliner - and Blaufrankisch - from very near his home in Grosshoflein.)Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.