A backward wine, the 2003 Syrah La Cote Rousse exhibits flavors and aromas of blackberries, black raspberries, and asphalt. It is medium-bodied, pure, and is armed with a firm tannic backbone. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Tel. (425) 861-9823; www.betzfamilywinery.com

A mix of Kiona and Ciel du Cheval Syrah is crafted into a dark, dense, tannic wine, tightly wound and vertically structured. Dark roasted scents suggest espresso and moist earth, along with classic Red Mountain minerality. Clean, silky, fully ripe but sleekly styled cherry and plum fruit finishes with dense, chocolaty tannins. Definitely a wine to tuck away for a few years.——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 93