The 2005 La Cote Rousse, from two superb sites in the Red Mountain AVA, is nearly black in color. It has a multi-dimensional bouquet of violets, smoked meat, game, chocolate, black raspberry, and blueberry. This leads to a loaded, dense, full-bodied wine with layers of spicy, ripe blue and black fruits, silky tannins, great balance, and a 45+ second finish. It will evolve for 4-6 years and drink well through 2030. As an aside, I tasted a barrel sample of a 2006 Petit Verdot from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard of which there are only two barrels (50 cases). Were it to be bottled separately, I would rate it (97-100). However, Bob Betz, informed me just prior to going to press that he has decided to blend it into the 2006 Pere de Famille. Oh well? Tel. (425) 861-9823; www.betzfamilywinery.com

The second of three Syrahs from Betz, this is thick and dark, heavy with still-chewy tannins, this rich and compact wine needs more time in bottle. It’s done in a big, toasty style, with lush black cherry fruit set against smoky, chewy tannins. It has a lot of power, but in its current (quite youthful) stage of development it remains stubbornly tight, herbal and hard. Give it plenty of breathing and/or cellar time.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 91