The 2005 Jarrarte was aged in new French oak for 12 months. It is opaque purple-colored with a nose of cedar, damp earth, mineral, and blackberry. On the palate it is very firm and slightly compact, albeit with plenty of spicy, savory fruit but the finish is also hard and tannic. It will require a minimum of 5-7 years of cellaring making this wine a gamble. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

An earthy, bulky wine with aromas of saddle leather, crushed spice and raisin. The palate is snappier than the bouquet, as blackberry and plum fruit show accents of dill, herbs, leather and soy sauce. A legitimate, muscular Rioja made in the so-called modern style. Drink now through 2014.——M.S.(4/1/2010)—— 89