The nose is a tell-all of what’s to come: It’s heavy and pasty, with not enough freshness to rally the troops. The palate has grit and weight, but the dark berry flavors are soupy, earthy and stewed. Finishes on the raisiny side, and while this is by no means poor or a disaster, for $50-plus it should be better.——M.S.(7/1/2011)—— 85