The vineyard is in a cooler part of the valley, out near Occidental, so even in this hot vintage, you can taste the acidity coaxed out of the grapes by the chilly winds and fogs off the Pacific. Yet the wine is not unripe, but shows interesting, complex flavors of wild berries, mocha, Dr. Pepper, licorice and dusty Asian spices. Notable for its balance and elegance.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 92