Sadly, there are only three barrels (all new) of Cathiard’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots, from a site he began vinifying in 1994. Cassis, black raspberry, wood smoke, nutmeg, coconut, coffee, and cumin in the nose lead to an infectiously-juicy, indeed positively exuberant palate impression, with silken smoothness and lovely clarity of fruit. The oak is subtle, and the fruit meets it more than half way. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70