The deeply-colored 2003 Oreno (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese) is a powerful effort redolent of tobacco, scorched earth and super-ripe, jammy, dark fruit. Warm and ample on the palate, it is a big, backward wine with plenty of structure and a brooding personality. A few years of bottle age may help round out the slightly drying tannins present on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Tenuta Sette Ponti’s internationally styled blend is heavy and dense, a mirror image of the hot ’03 vintage. Thus it pours on the blackberry, plum and fudge flavors with gusto. This is a seriously fat, opulent red that would weigh in as a heavyweight at any wrestling match. Still, it’s delicious and quite balanced. Drink from 2007 through 2009. ——M.S.(9/1/2006)—— 90