The 2004 Oreno (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese) is bursting with generous super-ripe dark fruit and sweet toasted oak notes, showing much concentration, length and vitality on the palate, as well as finessed tannins to round out the finish. Made in a more restrained style than the 2003, it will also require several years of bottle age to come together. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

A wine that gives you everything you could possibly want: complexity, elegance, intensity and a long, creamy finish. Oreno is a 50-25-25 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese (which prove to be perfect proportions in this case). It exhibits aromas of bright cherry, prune, plum, espresso grinds and cedar wood.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 94