Closed and structured, but incredibly powerful, dense, and promising is the 2000 Poggio Golo, a 100% Merlot aged in French oak. Its inky/black/ruby color is followed by a sweet nose of licorice, wood smoke, blackberries, and cherries. This heady, dense, tightly-structured Merlot behaves more like a Cabernet Sauvignon than a Merlot. Nevertheless, it's loaded, stacked, and packed with great ripeness, richness, and tremendous upside. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015. Based on recent efforts, Fattoria del Cerro looks to be one of Tuscany's up and coming stars. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200