The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a pretty, understated wine with lovely inner perfume in its sweet roses, raspberries, spices and licorice. The tannins remain fine and silky throughout, conveying an impression of elegance. The wine offers outstanding length as well as balance. Though not a blockbuster, the 2004 Amarone impresses for its superb drinkability and balance. Ideally this traditionally made Amarone is best enjoyed if opened an hour or two prior to serving. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Le Ragose is an excellent source for traditionally-made Valpolicellas and Amarones that can be had for very fair prices. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700