The 2007 Les Beaux Caillioux Chardonnay displayed an unusually subdued bouquet with touches of white flowers and just a faint petrol scent developing in the glass. There is certainly a lot of concentration and fatness on the palate but a surfeit of vanillary oak on the back palate that rather smothers its personality. It satisfies the palate, but not the intellect. Craggy Range continue to press forward with their ambitious plans and are rapidly becoming one of the most familiar New Zealand producers both at an entry-level, having successfully penetrated the competitive supermarket shelves in the UK, but also winning plaudits for their array of flagship bottlings such as Le Sol, Sophia and The Quarry. I concentrated on new releases but re-tasted some of the Pinot Noirs that I felt have improved significantly.Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Enticing, focused nose, minerals, toast and stone fruit. Pure and racy, full of minerality, superb structure and poise. Delicious.

Toasty, buttery and laced with tropical fruit, this is a full-bodied, fully-oaked Chardonnay that manages to pull all that off with grace and aplomb, thanks to healthy acid levels and admirable concentration. Long on the finish; drink now through 2013. ——J.C.(7/1/2010)—— 91