A seductive nose of pineapple, pear, vanilla and buttered toast leads, followed by a nicely knit, well-fruited, but not-at-all sweet palate. Here, pear, melon, pineapple and tangerine is offset by light toast and vanilla accents. Balanced and smoothly textured, it shows graceful restraint that suggests it will improve over the next year or two.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 91