Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2004 Montrachet is epic, but it needs a good three hours of air to really show all of its cards, and the truth is that it is still a very young wine that isn’t really ready to offer the full breadth of its profoundness. Overall, the 2004 is fairly shy, reserved Montrachet built on energy and tension, with less of the opulence that is found in many other years. Still quite brisk and vibrant, the 2004 will drink well for another 20 years. The 2004 is at its best at the very end of the night, when my only regret is not having saved more.