The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Von Stein Reserve comes from high, steeply-terraced Urgestein sites largely in the great Steiner Hund, and the Kogl. Saline and mysteriously mineral (for lack of any better word) in the nose, with subtle notes of herbs, tobacco, and greens, it delivers a veritable tongue-lashing to the palate of fine-grained but sizzling minerality, salts, and iodine, cherry pit, and pepper cress, then administers a suggestively sweet salve of herbal liqueur, honey, and melon. Lithe and lean in its structure, this displays an overall purity and palate-staining intensity I have never before witnessed at this address and begs to be experienced now and over the next dozen or more years. Bravo! Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300