The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Von Stein Reserve, also comes close to the quality of its amazing 2005 counterpart (which tastes even better now than when I reviewed it in issue 166). Lentil, green tea, and tobacco on the nose are joined by luscious melon and quince on a palate of such clarity that the mineral dimension of these high Urgestein terraces (including the Steiner Hund) seems to shimmer beneath. While there is no track record for this bottling, and the approach to winemaking has certainly changed at the Undhof over the past half dozen years, I still strongly suspect that this wine will hold well for 10-12 years. Erich Salomon succumbed to cancer last November (less than a week before Alois Kracher), but Berthold Salomon will continue the recent advances in quality at this estate as though his older brother were still looking on. Most of the harvest here took place in the second half of October.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A ripe, creamy wine, full and with a pepper edge. The wine has structure, richness and flavors of quince, green plum and green beans and a likely ability to age. Glass stopper.——R.V.(12/31/2007)—— 89