The 2004 Barolo Castelletto is a soft, accessible offering, with suggestions of tobacco and sweet herbs that complement its ripe fruit. This pretty Barolo offers excellent length and a fine, lingering finish. It was aged in 500 liter French oak barrels. The plots Manzone uses for this wine have now officially been recognized as belonging to the Castelletto sub-zone, so beginning with the 2004 this wine carries its vineyard name rather than the broader Barolo designation of prior vintages, but for practical purposes it is the same wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This is a very strong set of releases from Giovanni Manzone. I have always found an element of rusticity here, but the 2004s may well signal a move towards more elegant, refined Barolos. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411