Small berries with thick skins give this wine concentration and tannin, making some extra time in bottle mandatory. It’s still tight, and the layers of graphite and earth complement without concealing the lighter floral aromas and pretty, wild berry fruit. It rolls into a complex finish with black fruits, cola, licorice and baking chocolate, all lightly applied and in perfect proportion.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 91