The 2004 Syrah Ciel du Cheval is ripe and rich but comes up a bit short on complexity. Doug McCrea is one of Washington’s leading proponents of Rhone Ranger style wines. He gets considerable credit for getting Syrah underway in the State. He currently produces 3500 cases from his new winery from some of Washington’s finest terroirs. www.mccreacellars.com

Here is ripe—very ripe—fruit showing plum and prune and mince pie, along with chocolate and balsamic streaks. The refinement and layering of flavors found in past vintages is not evident; this is a somewhat blocky, slightly hot, almost rustic wine. Yet it lacks not at all for flavor, and could pass for a wine that has some extra cellar time behind it.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 87