Sugar addicts should check out the extremely ripe, raisiny, chewy 1988 Patriglione. It provides an almost overwhelming glass of wine and is meant to be served at the end of a meal, with a cheese course or by itself. Its viscous texture and intense, earthy, tar, and jammy black-cherry aromas and flavors ooze across the palate. This distinctive wine is clearly the most controversial of Taurino's current offerings. It is such a rich, alcoholic wine that it will have no difficulty holding its fruit and aging well for 10 or more years.