The 1995 Patriglione displays late harvest characteristics of tar, asphalt, bitter cherries, and licorice. Notions of saddle leather, cedar, cheese rind, chocolate, fruit, and earth also are found in the complex aromatics. Dense and rustic, this distinctive/individualistic Italian red carries its 14.5% alcohol with an attitude. It will drink well for 3-4 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620