From the upper reaches of its appellation – near Chambertin – the Camille Giroud 2006 Charmes-Chambertin took a hit from summer hail, but seems to have bounced back. Ripe black cherry, wood smoke, roasted meat and fennel in the nose lead to a firm, slightly tightly-tannic, yet both impressively concentrated and buoyant palate. If the structure does not become too much for it, this should live up to its name. I'd like to revisit it in 2010 but imagine it will be best appreciated over the next 4-5 years. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70