Plum, cherry, red licorice, smoked meat, and beef marrow dominate the Camille Giroud 2008 Charmes-Chambertin, with a tart sense of rhubarb entering on the palate, offset by a deep richness of cocoa powder and persistent seamlessly ripe sweet cherry and plum. This combines richness, carnal depth, and vintage-typical invigoration for an impressive performance that should play well for at least ten years. David Croix’s 2008 Camille Giroud collection was picked late; slow to evolve; and for the most part had not been bottled when I tasted in April. Although I missed out on a couple of wines in this year’s collection, the line-up from Camille Giroud was also smaller than in previous years. (I have not tasted the 2007s here. For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix’s approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively; and for reports on Croix’s own domaine, see under Domaine des Croix.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

(red) Subdued nose. Full-bodied and concentrated, with some black fruits on the palate; concentrated and formidable, this has power and persistence, and a lot of spice; good length.