The 2005 Shiraz “Ares” is a glass-coating opaque purple. The nose delivers tar, scorched earth, saddle leather, blueberry, and a hint of chocolate. Opulent, layered, and intensely flavored, it has excellent integration of oak, tannin, and acidity and enough hidden structure to evolve for up to a decade. Drink this tasty Shiraz through 2025. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate and R Wines portfolio. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com; Also tasted: 2007 Riesling “The Wolf” (82)

A majestic wine that's tremendously aromatic and dense in texture, but amazingly refined. Delineates its ripe plum, blueberry and currant flavors with precision, shading the fruit with nuances of coffee and dark chocolate, hinting at smoke and licorice as the finish laps at the palate like the shore of a deep lake. Shiraz. Best from 2010 through 2020. 850 cases made.

Two Hands' top-of-the-line Shiraz is a selection of the best barrels, boasting luscious vanilla and cedar from the oak, but also layers of raspberry and blackberry fruit. It’s creamy, lush and vanilla-laden but elegant at the same time, with a long, slightly tart finish. Delicious now, but should age well through 2015.