This Napa Valley aristocrat sheds its normally understated demeanor and shows lively, pear, apple and melon fruit plus a vanilla-custard richness. There’s toasty oak and a lively acid backbone that will help it evolve over the next few years. It’s well-balanced, with a toasty, poised finish that’s long and has bright lime overtones.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 90