Lancaster burst on the scene with enormous buzz, perhaps before they had really earned it. Steadily but surely, they’ve built up the wine, and the ’04 is the best ever. It’s a gorgeous Cab, softly complex, rich in cassis, cherry, spice and oak flavors anchored with warm, earthy tannins. In fact, the earthiness stands it in good contrast to Napa Valley, making it wholesome and complete.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 97