A candied white fruit-scented wine, the 1998 Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives was produced from parcels in two grand cru vineyards, Mambourg and Brand. Medium-bodied, it is satin-textured and displays oily waves of honeyed minerals, botrytised pears, as well as spices. This rich, deep wine should be consumed over the next 10-12 years.For years, The Wine Advocate has been clamoring for readers to take advantage of Alsace's fine values in white wine. It often appears that our words fall on deaf ears, yet Bernard Sparr, this firm's export director, informs me that his US sales have gone from 9,000 cases in 1998 to 25,000 in 2001. As other Alsatian estates also report significant growth in US sales, it would appear that our entreaties, and those of several colleagues, are being heard.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463