The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville exhibits the densest ruby/purple color as well as the most classic perfume (creme de cassis, cedar, spice box, licorice, and earth). Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins, it offers a whiff of new oak in its complex, dense personality. Consume it over the next 12-15 years. Tel. (800) 575-9777; Fax (707) 253-1493

There’s a sweat smell that dominates this Cab, and it’s too bad, because there’s a beautiful wine beneath the funk. Decant it, and the wine improves. Tasted three times. ——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 83