The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with a complex bouquet of citrus oil, white currants, fresh peach, tangerine, freshly baked bread and a nicely integrated framing of new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with striking reserves of concentration, racy acids and compelling amplitude without weight. While this is still quite youthfully primary, it's a superb Montrachet that lives up to the reputation of this great vineyard. Bottled under Diam 10, it's built to reward some bottle age.