The Moulin Touchais 1985 Coteaux du Layon smells alluringly of baked apple, apple jelly, pink pineapple, and heady flowers. Lusciously rich on the palate, yet not lacking cut or clarity, it carries honey, baked apple and grapefruit into a long, rich, if not rivetingly complex finish. Heaven knows I would be delighted for the opportunity to sip a glass of either of these in a restaurant, whether as aperitif, with foie gras, or in lieu of dessert. An iconic Loire estate, Moulin Touchais ferments in stainless and bottles after only 6-8 months, then holds wine back for at least a decade. These would, I suspect, seldom count among the elite of their appellation in any given vintage, but the opportunity to benefit from maturation and at reasonable prices should not be missed. While I tasted both younger and older current releases, two stood out. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404