With complex and idiosyncratic aromas of blood orange, candied grapefruit rind, quince preserves, white truffle, smoked meat, and fish oil, the 1989 Coteaux du Layon reveals in the mouth that pure, almost delicate character which the best of shriveled fruits from this hot vintage could produce. Waxy in texture, and tasting of butterscotch, honey, cinnamon, and candied mint and citrus, it finishes with flattering delicacy. An iconic Loire estate, Moulin Touchais ferments in stainless and bottles after only 6-8 months, then holds wine back for at least a decade. These would, I suspect, seldom count among the elite of their appellation in any given vintage, but the opportunity to benefit from maturation and at reasonable prices should not be missed. While I tasted both younger and older current releases, two stood out. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404