Cusumano’s 2004 Sagana (100% Nero d’Avola) is made in an over-ripe, opulent style. This round, full-bodied red is loaded with sweet dark fruit, smoke, herbs, licorice and tar. It offers much harmony in a distinctly modern style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Brothers Alberto and Diego Cusumano make a variety of wines from their holdings across the island. As good as the reds are, it would be nice to see Cusumano do more with their whites. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Here is a vivid and inviting rendition of Nero d’Avola that sees one year in oak casks and delivers layers of blueberry fruit, cigar box, almonds, spice and a hot sensation reminiscent of kirsch spirit. It has feather-soft tannins, good balance and a fruit-driven close. Imported by Vin Divino. ——M.L.(7/1/2006)—— 87