The 2006 Barolo Baudana is powerful and incisive in its dark fruit, tar, smoke and iron. The Baudana shows more depth and roundness than the straight bottling, but there isn’t as much of a difference between the wines as there was in 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is another set of delicious wines from Baudana, which seems to have found a new gear under the ownership of the Vajra family. These 2006 Baroli are very strong, even if the qualitative jump over previous vintages is not quite so striking as it was last year. Still, it will be fascinating to see the direction these wines take with the newer vintages that Vajras have shepherded from start to finish as opposed to these wines, which they found essentially already made when they bought the winery last year. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Rinascimento Wine Company, Santa Monica, CA; tel. (310) 314-1136