The generic 2005 Riesling A.P. #12, from old vines in Veldenz, manages to handle its sweetness and (10%) alcohol and to come off as elegant and light in a way that two Juffer Kabinetts did not. (This, one suspects, is a function of the cooler Veldenz site.) Smelling of lime and nectarine, and offering satisfyingly juicy and delicate citrus, peach, and nectarine dusted with brown spices on the palate, this finishes with generous fruit and hints of wet stone. Also recommended: 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese A. P. #8 ($ unknown; 86). Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700