A lovely wine that, despite its youthful impertinence, shows dramatic flair now and should develop in the short term. It has the weight and structure of a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, with flavors that veer toward red cherries, sweet leather and pomegranates. All this is kept in tight rein by acidity. This is a balanced wine that wants to assist food.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 91