The harvest here lasted until November 10, netting no fruit so exaggerated in ripeness as was that of 2003, but still none below Spatlese must weight. Some of that low-grade Spatlese informs Zilliken’s small batch of 2004 Riesling trocken, which smells alluringly of fresh apple, apple pit, flowers, and almonds, then comes to the palate invigoratingly salty, full of yellow plum, grapefruit, and apple. There is palpable density along with a subtle, lush sense of creaminess, yet none of that detracts from the wine’s lift, refreshment, and sheer infectiousness. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463